Why is my cat peeing outside the litter box but pooping in it?

Your cat still poops in the litter box. But you find pee on the bath mat, the rug or the bed. This split is a useful clue. When only the urine goes outside the box, the cause is often in the bladder, or it is spraying. The box itself can still be part of the problem. This guide goes through the causes in the order a vet looks at them.

First: is it an emergency?

Watch your cat the next time it uses the box. Go to a vet now, day or night, if your cat:

• strains in the box, but little or no urine comes out
• goes back to the box again and again
• cries out while it tries to pee
• becomes more and more restless or distressed

The Cornell Feline Health Center says a blocked urethra is “an absolute emergency”. A blocked cat passes little or no urine. Cornell warns that a cat can die in less than 24 to 48 hours after a complete blockage. Male cats, neutered or not, are at greater risk.

Do not wait to see if it passes. Do not try to treat it at home.

Why the pee goes outside, but the poop does not

Bladder pain

Cornell lists the signs of lower urinary tract disease:

• pain or difficulty when peeing
• peeing more often than normal
• crying out while peeing
• blood in the urine
• peeing outside the box
• licking the genital area often

Several of these affect only urine. A cat with a sore bladder may still poop normally. The Cornell house-soiling page explains why the cat leaves the box: it can link the box with the pain. Then it looks for another place, often a soft one.

The ASPCA lists three bladder problems that vets check:

• A urinary tract infection. The cat goes into the box often, but makes only small amounts of urine.
• Feline interstitial cystitis (FIC). The cat strains with little result, and there may be blood in the urine.
• Stones or a blockage. The cat visits the box often, cries, and its belly may be tender.

Cornell says FIC is the most common diagnosis in cats with these signs. Stress seems to play a part. The AAFP and ISFM guidelines add an important point: no test can prove FIC. So a “clear” urine test does not always mean a healthy bladder.

Other illnesses make a cat drink and pee more. Cornell names kidney disease, an overactive thyroid and diabetes. A cat that pees more may not reach the box in time.

Spraying (urine marking)

Spraying is urine only. So it fits the pattern “pees outside, poops inside” well. The AAFP and ISFM guidelines describe it: the cat stands, the tail is up and twitching, and a small amount of urine goes on an upright surface. The ASPCA says a marking cat still uses its box for normal pee and poop.

Some cats mark on flat surfaces too, the guidelines say. So look at the amount and the posture, not only the surface. Read more in cat spraying vs peeing.

One box for two jobs

The AAFP and ISFM guidelines say most cats prefer private places to toilet. They also say cats “may need different locations for urinating and defecating”. A cat with one box may poop there, then pee somewhere else.

The guidelines advise:

• One cat: 2 boxes, in 2 separate places.
• More cats: at least one box more than the number of cats. They say this is a rule of thumb, not an absolute rule.
• A home with more than one level: at least one box on each level.

Two boxes side by side do not count as two. The guidelines say cats see boxes next to each other as one large box.

The litter, the box and the place

Cornell says it can be the box, the litter, the place, or all three that a cat dislikes. The ASPCA lists signs that a cat dislikes its box: it goes in and leaves fast, or it goes near the box but not in it.

The AAFP and ISFM guidelines give these points for the box:

• Litter: fine, sand-like, unscented and clumping, at least 3 cm (1.25 in) deep.
• Size: 1.5 times the length of your cat, from the nose to the base of the tail.
• No extras: no liners, slotted grills or scented powders.
• Clean: remove waste at least once a day. Wash the box every 1 to 4 weeks with soap and hot water only.
• Place: not next to food and water.

Watch your cat in the box. The guidelines say a cat that balances on the edge, with only one or two feet inside, may dislike the litter or the dirt in it.

Other cats and stress

In a home with several cats, one cat can block the way. The AAFP and ISFM guidelines call it a “despot” cat. A timid cat may pee where it feels safe instead. The guidelines say cats need to reach a box without meeting other cats.

Changes in the home can stress a cat too: a new pet or person, new furniture, a move, or cats outside the window. Cornell says stress seems to be an important factor in FIC.

Older cats

The AAFP and ISFM guidelines say arthritis, weak muscles and poor sight can stop an older cat from reaching a box in the basement, or far from where it spends its day. The guidelines suggest extra boxes and night lights close to where your cat sleeps.

What to do, step by step

1. Book a vet check. Say that the problem is urine only. Ask if a urine test makes sense. The AAFP and ISFM guidelines say a sample is best tested within 30 to 60 minutes of collection, so ask the clinic how to bring it.
2. Add a second box in a different, quiet place. Leave it there for at least 2 weeks. The guidelines say to keep a box in its new place for 2 weeks once your cat uses it.
3. Check the litter and the box size against the list above.
4. Clean each spot well. The ASPCA says to use an enzymatic cleaner. Do not use ammonia: the ASPCA says it can draw your cat back to the same spot. Cornell also says to avoid vinegar.
5. Change what the spot means. Cornell suggests putting food bowls on a cleaned spot, because cats eat and toilet in separate places. The ASPCA suggests foil or double-sided tape on the spot, or an extra box there.
6. Change one thing at a time. If you change five things in a week, you cannot know which one helped.

What not to do

• Do not punish your cat. The ASPCA says never rub its nose in it, scold it, or carry it to the box. The AAFP and ISFM guidelines say punishment harms your bond and can cause fear-related aggression.
• Do not shut your cat in a small room for weeks without treating the cause, the ASPCA says.
• Do not wait for months. Cornell says one cause can lead to another. A cat may keep a new spot after the pain is gone.

What to record for your vet

The AAFP and ISFM guidelines say the vet uses a history, a timeline and a floor plan of your home with each soiling place on it. Write these down for 2 weeks:

1. Date and time of each accident.
2. Where: give each place a number on a simple floor plan.
3. The surface: bath mat, bed, carpet, a wall, a bag.
4. Pee or spray: a puddle on a flat surface, or a small amount on an upright one.
5. Which cat, and how sure you are: seen, on camera, or a guess.
6. The box: how many times a day your cat uses it, and how much it pees.
7. Health signs: straining, crying, blood, licking, more drinking.
8. What changed in the 4 weeks before it started.

The Cat Litter Box Problem Diary has pages for all of this. Page 2 lists the blocked-bladder signs. It has a floor plan, an accident log, a “pee, poo or spray?” check, a litter box audit, a page to test one change at a time, and a one-page history for the vet. It never names a medicine. Your vet sets the plan.

For a general guide, read why is my cat peeing outside the litter box. If the pee is on your bed, read why is my cat peeing on my bed.

Before the visit, our free vet visit summary puts your cat’s health notes and questions on one page.